It was a double celebration for Swaziland this weekend. The southern African kingdom commemorated “40-40″: 40 years of independence, and King Mswati III’s 40th birthday.
The King celebrated in splendor with pomp and circumstance – and amid much dissatisfaction.
Arriving at the Somhlolo national soccer stadium in traditional dress standing in an open-top black car waving to the crowd, Mswati waved to the thousands of cheering subjects, many of them waving flags.
“We all trust him,” said a young man with a front-row seat, in traditional dress.
“He’s a good man. He believes in his country. He loves everybody. We are all like the royal family.”
But not everyone agrees with this. Despite the good reasons to celebrate national pride, there is much to be unhappy about in Swaziland. 40 percent of the Swazi people are HIV positive. Nearly two-thirds live in poverty, while Mswati, his 13 wives, and numerous children live in luxury.
Before the “40-40″ got under way, some of the Queens went to Europe and the Middle East for a shopping spree which included new cars.
While the King celebrated his birthday and his kingdom’s independence, there were protests against the pricey celebratory ceremonies.
The official budget is $2.5m but some estimates claim the real cost could be five times that.
Critics say that it is money that could have been better spent elsewhere – on education, on health, and on saving lives.
At the same time, there are protests against the monarchy itself – Africa’s last absolute.
For two days this week trade unions and civic groups – a total of 1,500 of them -took to the streets in protest calling for change and for multi-party democracy.
“We condemn this party with the contempt it deserves,” said Swazi Trade Union leader Jan Sithole, as he marched in the capital.
“People feel so strongly because this is a plundering of the country’s resources in the height of grinding poverty for most of the Swazi masses.
“People feel their money is being wasted, with arrogance.”
“The king spends our money and is not answerable to anyone!” complained Mario Masuku, the head of an outlawed political party and a familiar figure of Swazi discontent.
The rowdiest of the demonstrators flung rocks, looted goods from sidewalk vendors and even set off a few small explosions. Others made impromptu placards with torn up cardboard. “Down with 40-40!” read one, while another demanded, “Democracy now!” A few protesters chanted things meant to make rich people feel guilty: “My mother was a kitchen girl. My father was a garden boy. That’s why I’m a Socialist.”
Despite the anger and the protests, many Swazis are proud of their king and shrug off his extravagance.
“He’s the king, he should do whatever he wants to do with the money. He is in charge of everything in the country,” said Phumlile Dlamini, 18, a student in last week’s Reed Dance.
Percy Simelane, the government’s spokesman, was quoted by Agence France-Presse last week as saying: “Poverty has been with us for many years. We cannot then sit by the roadside and weep just because the country is faced with poverty. We have made great strides as a country that gives us pleasure in celebrating 40 years of independence and the king’s birthday.”
But some Swazis, such as Tengetile Hlope from the rural part of Swaziland, are not convinced.
“I feel like I am just celebrating 40 years of poverty and hunger in this country.”
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